The glossary isn’t updated, I just moved it out of the OP to make space.
Sit rep for today:
I’ve designed the front and rear of Heretic Mk.2, hopefully the active 4WD will work in the real world. I couldn’t think of anything special so all it is is 2 switches that turn off the motors on the inside of the car depending whether it is turning left or right. This way it sort of simulates an open differential. Now I just need to design the chassis. Also I’ve decided to make it an RC too. Hopefully this time 4 motors and a real RC battery will make it move at a decent pace.
The front looked at from behind (if that makes sense):
I had to make makeshift switches out of lego because the actual switch piece wasn’t in the parts database. But in essence it is just a 3 way switch (on/off/on) that is moved between on and off by the steering rack and is then returned to on by a horizontal shock absorber. It’s very tricky to see in the diagram so here is a simplified demo where my finger represents the steering rack pushing the switch.
The back looked at from the front:
I used the same parts as in the front except here I took out the servo, steering rack and switches.
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If you’re not here from the OP you can ignore this post
Note: PLEASE DO NOT EDIT THIS POST, IT IS ONLY A WIKI SO THAT THE EDIT TIME DOESN’T EXPIRE.
This was my first and is so far my only major Lego project that has existed physically. The first thing you’ll notice is that it doesn’t look much like a car; that’s because, I wanted it to be a showcase of the mechanisms (and I was too lazy to make a body). But as it turned out it was pretty rubbish as I forgot to account for the scaling of everything and had to bodge it together. 
Info:
-Total parts: 1383
-Technic Parts: 1379
-Electronic parts: 4 (a battery box, 1 medium motor, 1 XL motor and a switch)
-Total price: ~£275 (inc electronics which were about £25 alone)
-Price per piece: ~£0.20 (20p)
Gear ratios (gearbox only):
1st gear: 2.25
2nd gear: 1.5
3rd gear: 1.25
4th gear: 1
5th gear: 0.75
6th gear: 0.5
Pics:
Different views:
Manual spoiler up:
Left active spoilers up (you can’t see the rear one from the front because of the gearbox):
Right active spoilers up:
Flat underbelly (the gap is there to stop the differential from catching on the plating):
A crudely labeled pic of where the power will go through the gearbox if it were in first:
A crudely labeled pic of where the power will go through the actuator system for the active aero:
Mini demos:
General functions:
Active aero (due to gearing, the front spoiler comes up faster and fully and the rear only gets to half way) :
1st gear:
6th gear (I couldn’t edit the 5th gear fail from the gif):
I only did the first and last gear because it takes 15 mins (quite literally) to render a single gif due to file size.
Build notes:
-I lost track of how long this build took.
-I’ve had to do more redesigns than I can count
-I recycled most parts from the 42039 LMP set I posted a while ago in the w/w thread.
-This was completely improvised
-Apart from the very basic part of the rear suspension, everything is my own design (I heavily modified the rear suspension I used)
-It has a 6 speed gearbox
-It could pull a reverse and a mechanical handbrake built into the gearbox but I didn’t account for scaling and couldn’t fit them in
-For some reason it grinds it’s gears in 5th
-It can only pull itself in 1st, the gears just grind for 2nd - 6th
-It has 4WD with 3 open differentials
-Has active and manual aero (I couldn’t find a good way to automate the manual one)
-Initially the active aero was meant to be connected to the steering but it proved too difficult and complex
-Inspiration for the active aero came from the Pagani Huayra which has a similar system
-Has independent suspension
-The front suspension has a lot less travel than the rear due to the steering linkage
-If Lego were to sell this as an official set it would cost half as much
-I had to order extra parts as well as using the recycled ones
-Because of Lego’s awkward gear sizes I ended up having to use around 40 gears as opposed to a dozen for the gearbox
-I would have used pneumatics if they weren’t so damn expensive.
2 Likes
Well done! 
I like the fact that you recycle parts of old projects, so you don’t go directly to buy new expensive one and you make your brain working in adjust what you have… 
It’s not important that there isn’t a “real” body…it works, so no problem! 
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This is just the unnamed car project. Not Heretic Mk.2
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I just finished designing Heretic Mk.2 , this one is relatively simplistic compared to RC V1 and Heretic, because both of the latter had 2 speed transmissions, selectable 4WD and Heretic even had remotely adjustable ride height.
In contrast, Heretic Mk.2 (which staying true to its name is powered by the same 3S brick I use in Banshee) only has the closest to active 4WD that I could design. In essence it trades its 3 differentials for 4 separate motors (one for each wheel) and then uses to switches that detect the position of the steering rack to turn off the motors on the inside of the car when it is going around a bend thus mimicking a differential.
Obviously when this is done in some real electric cars there is far more going on and it’s far more advanced and has a far more profound effect on cornering and performance. In the case of Heretic Mk.2 it was a good way to cram in more motors (for more speed) but eliminate the differentials (that way I don’t have to account for where I have to place drive shafts).
Maybe if I can be bothered I might design a Heretic Mk.3 where I try to make selectable 4WD and remote ride height adjustment. As it stands now, 4WD and suspension geometry are manually adjustable.
As usual designs are available if you want them.
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I’m updating the OP with a new link that has in depth motor specs and other such things.
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Another sit rep:
Since I’m helping my dad at work this week he’s paying me in RC parts and not money 
so I ordered a new Tx/Rx combo for Banshee.
It’s a Tactic TTX300 which is actually a pretty cheap radio (it comes packaged with some RCs) however, crucially for me, it has 3 channels, the Rx is tiny and better still neither the Tx or Rx have external antennas and the Tx only uses 4 AAs not 8 like my current one.
Now I can repurpose my old Tx/Rx for Hellhound and ditch the dodgy double Tx/Rx system I’m using.
https://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj0300-ttx300/ttx300_main.jpg
https://www.tacticrc.com/transmitters/tacj0300-ttx300/tacj0300bi01l-lg.jpg
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My Tx/Rx came today, spent a small part of the evening calibrating my ESC and hooking up the Rx. I’m too tired to deal with all the wires and I need to set it up properly with EP and trim adjustment.
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I don’t think I’ve asked, have you gotten into drones at all? I was thinking of getting myself another-I always end up gifting them away to cousins or stuff lol
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I’m terrible at flying quads. I have a very cheap palm sized one and i can’t fly indoors for more than a few secs without crashing, I need to try it outside but even the smallest gust of wind will take it out.
If you’re looking for advice on quads then unfortunately I’m not the guy to ask. Try looking around RC forums and see what people recommend.
Lol nah I was just curious if you were into them as a hobby since you do the rc’s
The palm ones are crap to handle outside haha I’ve had a few bigger ones and they’re more fun it’s just charging batteries are a pain in the backside
You can’t pack anything bigger cuz of weight
I remember for my last one I ended up buying a ton of batteries for it but even then by the time you got it somewhere interesting you had to land it to swap it out 
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Yeah, flight times aren’t great.
So Banshee is finished for now (the only other thing I’m considering is possibly fabricating my own wheelie bar), I’ll post a couple of gifs of tomorrow’s run with the new Tx/Rx combo. I’ve also moved Banshee’s old Tx/Rx into Hellhound. There’s no pics to really share as there are no visible differences.
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THATS SOO NICE! You’ve done a great job!
There was its its exhibition last night in mall. Some lucky draw kinda thing…
Organising confusions! … lol . Good luck bro!
yea… little more organised confusion 
Aww hell is beautiful ya. It’s gonna look great after you put up its shining lights! 
poor banshee and hellhound… doctor’s call! …lol
They are literally nice ones! sometimes it feels is it gonna crash and break but then goes smoothy over snow. i didn’t knew it will work nicely on snow.
ya this is what i thought…
oh its okay . c’on you’ll figure out everything soon!
And the progress is looking damn awesome! You have great skills to put them in place. I could never be able to fix so small thing. Great ya
Nice glossary there. It will reduce some volume… will be a bit easy for ya to post stuff.
mee too. Thats was a nice idea.
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Thank you!! 
Are you sure you’re looking at the right gifs? I was expecting to at least go over 5MPH, I barely reached 3. Those gifs were the flukes of the day. The rest of the time I was pushing them along the snow with my foot or they were sitting in place spinning their wheels.
They’re not that small, the LEDs are 10mm in diameter and the sleeves were 13mm (not counting the rim at the front).
That’s the entire point of Lego, you use your pieces for all sorts of things. Anyone who has a pile of pieces from one set and then goes and buys pieces to build something when they could have used the pieces from the set they had is a total imbecile. The unnamed car project actually uses a lot of pieces from the 12039 LMP car.
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Even 1MPH is enough for me! I am so scared driving them seems like next second is CRASZZHHHH!!! loool!
Still needs skill to work with 1cm thing you know. i won’t be able to do…
Even Desperation was faster than 1MPH. I assure you, you’d hate 1MPH.
i know… i was talkig about snow…